We planned to do a tour of Calabria so, with the region being long and thin, it made sense to start at one end and travel to the other. We started south and went north. Our usual home airport is Manchester, but TUI’s flights were so expensive to Lamezia, that it was cheaper to hire a car, drive to Stansted, stay in a hotel and fly from there with Ryanair! Doing this saved about £300.
After a 2 ½ hour flight to Lamezia Airport, we caught a bus to the railway station and had to wait for two hours. Strangely, I found this really pleasant! We popped over the road to a shabby looking café and had a coffee. Sat in the shade, listening to a couple of locals chatting away, traffic whizzing by, I just felt myself acclimatising. If that makes sense. There is a specific vibe to southern Italy, somehow. It’s hard to explain. More laid back the north. I can’t put my finger on it. If you’ve been, you’ll know. If you haven’t been, read on.
We stayed in Parghelia, at the Residence (hotel) Porto Ulisse as they had a pool and it would be quieter setting than a place in Tropea itself. Tropea is a smashing, olde worlde, traditional town and, consequently, a tourist magnet. Nearby Parghelia allows easy access to Tropea, but much less busy.
Porto Ulisse is a good hotel and has very positive feedback from customers. The pool area is gorgeous and has fabulous views of Tropea just a mile down the coast. I can recommend this place, but I would ask for a room on the first floor as there is no view to be had on the ground level. Furthermore, our room was rather small, and did not get any sunlight during the day. We never wanted to spend any leisure time there.
The situation of the hotel is excellent with an easy walk to a very nice beach, Parghelia is nearby and Tropea a mere twenty-minute stroll away. The hotel sends out a minibus to pick guests up from the beach and from Tropea, which is a useful service and much cheaper than taxis.
In summary, this hotel is a good option, but insist on a first-floor room. The nearby beach is lovely, the video link below will give a flavour. It’s quite a long sandy strand with a nearby moist section, the sea, for swimming in. In September two sunbeds and an umbrella cost €10. The hotel minibus will drop you off and pick you up, but it’s only a 15-minute stroll away.
Parghelia is a small place with a dozen or so bars and restaurants. It’s quieter and cheaper than Tropea and we liked its mellow atmosphere. For three nights out of our five-night stay, we spent the evenings there.
Tropea compares very well with its more famous counterparts further up on the Amalfi coast. Sorrento is fine, but rather built up and doesn’t feel ‘old’. Positano is cutesy, but expensive, and the beach is small. Amalfi is a fine town, but doesn’t have anything Tropea doesn’t have. The Amalfi coast is scenically dramatic and famously so. I think Calabria compares well to it.
Calabria itself has its own unique history in the context of Italy as a whole. The locals consider themselves Calabrians first and Italian second. A fierce regional pride shared by most of Italy, come to think of it. Many of the towns in the ‘toe’ of Italy were founded by the Ancient Greeks. Pythagoras, Mr Triangle himself, lived in the region. The local dialect is closely linked to the Greek language and some road signs are in Cyrillic script. Roman influence is inevitable, and the Byzantine followed that. The Normans left their mark in numerous castles and the Bourbons, famous for their biscuits, played a walk on part in the Calabrian story. Carrying on the biscuit theme, Garibaldi also spent time in the area.
Traces, big and small, of this history can be found in Tropea and the surrounding towns and villages. Alongside humans, the dramatic landscape has shaped Tropea and Calabria into what they are. Picturesque beaches set against a background of steep hills and a clear sea make for great photos. There would be more historical remains but for the tendency for earthquakes to knock things down.
Tropea perches on a cliff overlooking several small beaches. The town is accessed from the seafront by one of two sets of stairs. After 196 steps, I counted them, sumptuous views await the knackered, sweaty climber. Even better was a view of my Peroni Nastro Azzuro birra grande which also awaited me at the top. The layout of the town is organic and labyrinth, encouraging visitors to explore, discover, get lost, have an argument, use Google maps, and explore again. It is a town of hidden gems down shady backstreets and cool piazzas, with bars and restaurants. On which point, I think one would be wise to plan ahead and reserve a table at the better-known establishments. They can get fully booked, especially if you want to eat outside.
Inevitably, there’s a cathedral, but they were saying mass when we arrived there. I didn’t feel comfortable wandering round taking photos and getting selfies with nuns. Given what Tropea and Calabria have to offer, it is perhaps surprising that they are not as well known as other parts of Italy. That said, it is getting discovered pretty quick these days. We considered staying in Tropea, but decided we’d get the best of both worlds staying just outside. Food!
Restaurant wise in Parghelia, Il Portale, did great pizza. Two of these, plus a splendid bottle of white wine, was a snip at €38. Other eateries have good reviews. Just outside Parghelia, Da Tonino was pretty much next door to our hotel and very reasonably priced. One litre of house wine cost €8 and it was nice enough plonk. We went twice and shared a large bowl of mussels to start each time. For mains, I had the pork chop twice as it was grand. Everywhere we ate the spaghetti was more al dente than we are used to in the UK. It’s just how they cook it so, be aware of that. We loved this place because it had the traditional, unpretentious, laid-back, Italian style.
In Tropea, Diamante Rosso is a newish restaurant with few TripAdivsor reviews as yet. We had pizza, and it was very good. The place has a modern style and, though most dishes are traditional, there is often a ‘twist’ of some kind. The quality of ingredients was noticeably good. Staying in Tropea, Il Convivio is a classy joint serving mainly seafood. My mixed fish grill was great, with four different types of aquatic beast. The tuna carpaccio starter was fine, but cut a little thicker than we like. I described its gelatinous texture as being rather ‘testicular’ at which point my wife stopped eating. On reflection, I should have chosen a different simile…
Should you go?
The hotel is fine, but our room wasn’t the best, cramped and with no sunlight at all. We went in September and prices were very reasonable at £90 a night. Breakfast was a bit limited, though the coffee was great. The situation of the hotel in Parghelia is perfect, in walking distance between Tropea and the beach, which is better than the beaches in Tropea which are tad small. The pool and sunbathing are spot on with plenty of sunbeds and gorgeous views of the sea, harbour and Tropea Town. To repeat, ask for a room on the first floor!
Should I Go 2 
Leave a comment