Imerovigli, Santorini

Actually, this blog isn’t strictly about Imerovigli. That is the nearest town to where we stayed, but we were a fifteen-minute walk from it. Given that stroll is along a path 1000 feet up on the edge of the caldera, you may assume it’s an amazing walk! It’s one of those routes where you’ll be stopping every fifty yards to take yet another photograph. That said, I don’t think there is a camera that can do justice to the sheer majesty of the scenery.

Breakfast

The scenery evokes a serene, peaceful response, which Anastasis Apartments mirrors and reciprocates. It is a supremely tranquil place to stay. A range of spa treatments is offered, and there are sunbeds and a heated infinity pool. But this is also a place that will chill you out spiritually. Despina and her staff are totally focused on giving their guests a thoroughly relaxing holiday.

This blog is mostly a review of Anastasis and of how it engages with what is on offer around it. If that sounds a little confusing, read on. Clarity will emerge! Hopefully…

The physical setup of Anastasis is that it has about a dozen or so apartments. Some are more luxurious than others, but all of them are very good. We have stayed in three different suites now. This isn’t a hotel but although there is no dining room, there is a kitchen, a menu and food will be brought to your apartment. Breakfast is served at your time of choosing, and it is a hearty one too! We always had a lie-down after it and never needed a lunch. At 2.00 pm, a free drink and snack is offered to guests around the pool area. At sunset you will be brought a glass of wine or ouzo to watch the spectacle.

Alongside the stunning views, sunset is the Instagram highlight for many visitors to Santorini. It ranks alongside watching dawn over the Grand Canyon. The towns along the rim of the caldera make a living out of it.

The caldera is all that remains of a volcano that exploded 4000 years ago, much to the irritation of those living there in (supposedly) Atlantis. It must have been a disappointing day for them as they screamed in the molten lava and boiling gases thrown a thousand feet up in the air. Hopefully, they expired before they plummeted back to earth. On a brighter note, the sea quickly filled the crater in and it has left us with a jolly nice place to sunbathe, sip cocktails, and enjoy canapes. Oh well, one man’s meat etc.

As mentioned, Anastasis Apartments is a short distance from the villages of Imerovigli and Firostefani, and it is a little further to the larger Fira and its restaurants. However, this is a feature. Firstly, because it is pretty quiet around the apartments. Secondly, they offer a free drop-off and pick-up to these towns several times an evening. Additionally, they will reserve a table for you, just to make it all so easy! The first time we went it was in August, and there was a queue outside a busy, full, popular place. We told a waiter that Anastasis had booked us in. He cleared a spot and set a table up for us like we were royalty.

I guess it’s clear from the blog so far that we opted for an indolent five-night stay, but there is stuff to do. You can hire a car and see the island; we didn’t fancy that. There are beaches, and we looked into the possibility, but decided to lie by the pool instead. We have started the walk to Oia twice now, and changed our minds twice on that too, but even the section we did was simply gorgeous. I would have liked to see the excavations at Akrotiri, and I will do so next time.

The nearby villages of Imerovigli and Firostefani are quite similar. They have restaurants and bars, usually with a caldera view. Fira, the island’s capital, is a little larger, offers more of the same, and is a stopping off point for cruise ships. In all these places, watching the sunset is an almost religious, communal ritual. Clutching a mojito in place of rosary beads, the congregation intones its oohs and aahs as the bright Eucharistic disc slips slowly into the Aegean.

On returning to your apartment, you may find that the staff have been busy setting it up for the night. It changes every time, but you will come back to; clever towel art, petals on the bed, a liquor, sweet treats, and/or a room dressed up with candles. I got the feeling they had fun doing this; the staff could hardly be more attentive. A young lad working down the pool area spotted us moving sunbeds on our patio. He was up there in moments to help us out. On returning from my morning stroll, I was greeted by a member of staff with a chilled, moist face towel. You don’t get that at Travelodge!

I have a tendency to find luxurious places intrusive as I feel uncomfortable being cosseted or pampered. At Anastasis, however, they strike the right note; they get the balance right. If Despina is the conductor, her orchestra is very well rehearsed.

Obviously, after a mere five-night stay, I can’t give a comprehensive take on the local restaurants. Two that stuck out for me. Cacio e Pepe in Fira was a very good Italian. The pizzas were really good, and the house chianti was top quality. Taverna Romantica in Firostefani was my favourite. It’s a typical Greek establishment right down to the free ouzo as a pre-prandial. Meat was cooked over an open charcoal range. My wife’s pork chop was literally a foot long. Our waiter, I’m guessing he was the owner, was charm personified.

Should you go?

Having ploughed through this blog, hopefully you can finally make this decision with some clarity. It’s pretty obvious that I’d recommend Anastasis Apartments. It is a relaxing and romantic destination. Passersby on the walk to Oia never fail to look up and admire the setup. Its location is quiet yet because of the free shuttle service, loads of bars and restaurants are at your fingertips. The staff are great and take the hassle out of everything, from transporting you about to putting the umbrella up by your sunbed.

It’s not an expensive place to stay, given the quality of what you are getting. We first went about eight years ago and have always wanted to return. I’m very glad we did. It’s the kind of place that you would love to take friends to and bask in their appreciation.

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