Our two-week stay in Crete began in Chania and ended in Elounda. We wanted a middle section with a difference, something in the countryside, away from the coast. Kapsaliana Village Hotel, in the village of Kapsaliana, set in the hills behind Rethymno, was an excellent option. The hotel is a tasteful regeneration and redevelopment of the remaining buildings of what was a 16th century monastery and olive farm. It is a lovely setting, peaceful and upmarket.
The pool area had magnificent views over olive groves down to the coast, and in April the water was heated. It was such a mellow spot that we didn’t miss being near the beach. There were plenty of sun beds and they were well spaced out over several terraces. There is bar service too, which is a classy touch.
We stayed in ‘superior double room with a terrace sea view’ and it was quite splendid. The sea was there in the distance, but more importantly, the countryside dominated the hotel’s vibe. We woke up to a wide variety of birdsong and the tinkling of bells on local goat herds. It was symphonic.
The hotel is pretty flash, as they describe themselves on their website:
“Kapsaliana Village Hotel is equal to none, standing out on a multiplicity of levels. A breathtaking, natural location steeped in history and tradition; a paradigmatic work of architectural restoration; effortlessly chic accommodation; incredibly wholesome food and authentic experiences that carry meaning, all of which offer a holiday experience that transcends time, one where luxury and harmony are at an equilibrium.”
Indeed, their restaurant aims to serve “enticing gastronomic bombs” and the hotel does highlight the cuisine angle. I’m no fan of fine dining, so you should take my judgement with a pinch of salt (or a smidgeon of Le Saunier de Camargue Fleur de Sel) but I wasn’t knocked out by the food in the evenings. I suspect Michelin starred restaurants aren’t apologising to customers for the same wobbly table every night. It’s wobbly, it’s knackered, sort it out!
Here’s a little more bitching before I dish out some praise. In the hotel restaurant, I was eating bread and butter to fill up. I had mini rabbit pies for my starter one evening. They were partnered with a sauce of pureed carrot. If you are going to serve something like that, then the flavour had better stand out. But it was bland. This was followed by pork and, as with all the meat and fishes we had, it was cooked to perfection. However, the accompanying vegetables were nondescript, pretentious, and they didn’t really harmonise. That was the key flaw. That, and the percolated coffee shouldn’t be cold… The wines were good, but over-priced. Typically, we paid €110 for a meal for two including a couple of glasses of house wine.
That’s enough whining. Like I say, I don’t enjoy fine dining. As for praise, the hotel breakfasts were stunning. I would like to list what was available, but that would be exhaustive. It’s easier to mention things that weren’t there; helicopter parts, pre-Raphaelite paintings, papal blessings, and velociraptor gizzards. Those are the only ones I can think of. The service was brilliant and the staff were totally accommodating. We rarely ate lunch, as our four-course breakfast sufficed till evening.
To sum up on Kapsaliana Village Hotel. The staff are lovely; the rooms are great; the site is stunning; the breakfast is out of this world, there is a question mark over the evening menu and prices.
There is one taverna in the village, about a fifteen-minute walk from the hotel, and it has good reviews; but it wasn’t serving food in April. A ten-minute drive down the road to Rethymno was Taverna Faragi. A very typical, traditional eatery. Greek cuisine is about the quality of the ingredients, simple dishes cooked simply and Faragis got it right. Starter, main course, drinks all round, €41. Kapasaliana village is in a delightful spot to explore the countryside, but you need a car.
A day trip to Rethymno was inevitable as it’s only a 20-minute drive to the sea front. We had considered staying there. I’m glad we didn’t, although it has a great beach and a decent old town. It was busy in April, and I’m guessing it would be packed in the summer. The beach is a good but, unfortunately; it is backed by a busy road. Traffic noise spoils the ambience for me.
Having just come from Chania, with its gorgeous harbour front vibe, Rethymno lacked the medieval charm we had become used to. In the town there are plenty of well-recommended restaurants. We had lunch at Taverna Othonos. The traditional Greek hospitality was on full throttle. It began with a free zucchini soup and an amuse-bouche, generous wine measures, beer glass straight out of the freezer, free cake for the sweet and a glass of raki. Superb, again, €41 for two people.
One of the suggested activities that they provide at the hotel is a walk in a nearby gorge/valley. A hotel driver drops you off at the start and you follow the map back to the hotel. It was an idyllic afternoon in the sunshine. The path takes you down to the river at the bottom, then back up the other side. It’s not steep or challenging. Make sure you take some water if the weather is hot. We only met a couple of other walkers in the whole three hours, so it was a peaceful excursion.
Should you go?
I feel this blog had a negative flavour, hmmm… My only criticism of this gorgeous place is the style of food served in the evenings. The breakfasts were top-notch. Later in the season, we would have had more options to explore local villages and tavernas. However, you would definitely need a car. The gorge walk we did was my favourite day. For a contrast with a beach holiday, (or combined with one) Kapsaliana is a perfect option.
Should I Go 2 