Way of the Roses

The abovementioned is a Sustrans route from Morecambe in Lancashire to Bridlington in Yorkshire. It is 170 miles long though, inevitably, you can expect to add a few furlongs for various reasons. The route is very well signposted, and while a sat nav is always helpful, it is perhaps not essential on this journey. I had the gpx file on my Karoo 2 cycling computer, which I did refer to, and a physical map, which I did not. You can purchase them here from Sustrans.

Of course, you can break up the route however you like, or not at all if you’re really hench. We opted for a leisurely schedule because we wanted to have leisure time. This attitude stemmed from our experience on The Rebellion Way last year. We wanted less time in the saddle and more time in the pub.

Preparation is important, and mine was not a success as I injured my right knee in pre-trip practice. The only way to fix this was with rest. In consequence, I did not do much to get myself ready. The consequence of this was that I could not cycle the hill climbs and had to push my loaded bike a lot on the first two or three days. What to blame? Bad back, bad knee, overweight, 64 years old… Whatever my excuses are, if you are going west to east, then there are some very challenging climbs in the first few days and it would be wise to be ready for them.

The seven chaps of our party met up in Morecombe on the 15th of June 2024. The plan was to drink beer, go for a meal (Miaitalia – very good), play pool and (as it was during Euro 2024) watch some football. All these complex and challenging goals were achieved.

Morecambe to Settle

Uphill and down dale in a 38-mile trip. We were ‘lucky with the weather’ as the British tend to say when holidaying in the UK, so we could enjoy the lovely countryside. I found the hills testing and had to walk up four of them, and this was on a day when the slopes were fairly gentle.

For these climbs, you are rewarded with some splendid views of the Lancashire countryside. Our 37-mile trek finally ended at The Black Horse in Giggleswick. A fine hotel and pub. The restaurant was very good indeed. It had a small menu and no mains over £18. The staff are professional, courteous and do everything to give a first-class service. The cost was £135 per room, be it a double or a twin. Our bikes were locked up in a shed, which is reassuring. Although I doubt the quaint village of Giggleswick has a large criminal underworld.

Settle to Pateley Bridge.

A 28-mile ride, but beware; our total climb that day was the height of Mount Snowdon; 3000ft. Some ascents were very tough, as much as 16% climbs. I walked up a lot of them, pushing my loaded bike up the swines. The final two miles down to Pateley is not so much a descent as a plunge. Like the first big drop on a roller coaster ride. If you don’t keep on squeezing the front and back brakes, you’ll be smeared across Pateley High Street like human marmalade on tarmac toast.

In Pateley, I was too shattered to eat an evening meal and left the guys in the pub restaurant of the Crown Inn to go for a lie down. Some of them stayed there and said it was fine. The meal they had was good, massive portions, and the staff were kind when they found out I was feeling ill. Mostly, it was just being knackered, but I’m sure that I made a mistake in wolfing down a massive slice of coffee and walnut cake. A generous freebie off our hosts at the Willow Restaurant (it also has rooms) but the impact of the sugar was akin to a hit of LSD. So I’m told, not that I, well, anyway.

An hour of recumbent relaxation fixed me and I was back out in the boozer. A few beers, salted peanuts, and pork scratchings sorted me out. A good night’s sleep and decent breakfast the next morning set me up for the next day.

Pateley Bridge to York

Given the descent into Pateley Bridge is so dramatic, it’s inevitable that the climb out would be tough. It was indeed a challenging start, but once it was over, we had a pleasant enough ride to York. We got lucky with the weather (again) and missed the showers that were around. Not too warm, but it was dry. If you are planning to do the Way of the Roses, keep a beady on the weather forecasts!

I had hoped not to spoil this blog with something repulsive. But, sadly, not all of us were faithful to the true spirit of Sustrans and followed the correct route through the delightful grounds of Beningbrough Hall. I and a friend were rewarded for our diligence with the serene vista afforded. Others, with more callow natures and lacking the required moral fibre, made a ‘mistake’, apparently. They know who they are. So I won’t mention any names (Matt). I see no need to dwell further on this disgusting incident.

Whilst one’s mind is naturally on the cycling side of things, it is a big mistake on trips like this not to ‘stop and smell the roses’. This was another reason we took five days over the route. The scenery is sumptuously lovely, especially when enhanced by sunshine. The video link below will emphasise this point. To simply stand still and listen to the birdsong is a feast for the eyes and ears. Speaking of joy…

Thanks are due to an old friend, Chris Shepherd, who told me about Chamois Butt’r. If you know, you know. If you don’t, you need to. It is a viscous cream which is applied to the nether regions that rest upon the saddle. A reapplication may be necessary during the ride, do not scrimp on this fine ointment! A generous smearing keeps chafing at bay. I suffered from this ailment whilst riding through the grounds of Benniston Hall. Inadvertently, I caused some distress to a young lady who was walking her dog and witnessed my discomfort. It looked to her as if I was wrestling with an octopus trapped in my underpants. Should she ever read this blog, I apologise. I was in pain.

York to Driffield

Click for a short extract.

The tough climbs were over early on our third day. Having surmounted the Pennine range, it was mostly flat between York and journey’s end. There was one section, marked as a climb, but it turned out to be a mild one. Somehow, many of the group found themselves cycling solo through it. Later, we all agreed that it was such a mellow moment. The sun was out, the narrow lane through the valley was silent except for the sounds of nature and a gentle breeze. It was one of those sublime moments that makes the whole journey worthwhile for me. Driffield is a pleasant enough market town, though we saw little of it. The name actually means ‘dirty, manured field’ apparently. Things have improved since 1086. There was no manure on the streets, and I would have liked to explore it more. However, we were up early and off to Bridlington.

Driffield to Bridlington

Our final day’s ride was a short 20-mile jaunt. England had a Euros cup match at 5.00pm and watching that was a priority. The journey was, again, smooth and through the lovely countryside. We took advice from some guys we met and made a detour to visit Rudston Church and its Neolithic stone. It was a nice, quiet spot on a sunny day. All Saints’ Church dates from around 1100 ad, the standing stone, or megalith, dates back to 2500 bc. I think it was worth the two-mile diversion to check it out.

After pootling through the suburbs of Bridlington, the North Sea glittered in the sunshine to welcome us, and we rode triumphantly along the seafront to the finishing line. Cheering crowds lined our route. Rose petals were strewn along the promenade, and lusty voices were raised in songs of joyful celebration.

I had fish and chips, a pint of beer, and checked into the ever reliable Premier Inn. We ate in a good Italian restaurant that I can recommend called Little Sicily. Fed and watered, I was in bed for 9.30 and enjoyed the repose of the righteous.

Should you go?

My only other experience of an organised cycling route is on The Rebellion Way, which exists under the auspices of Cycling UK. The Way of the Roses, run by Sustrans, is superior in terms of organisation, cycling surfaces and signposting. Almost any kind of tyres and bicycle would be okay for The Way of the Roses. That was not the case for The Rebellion Way. That stated, in terms of terrain, I preferred the Norfolk countryside. It is less taxing than Yorkshire. The steep hills of the Pennines require a certain level of fitness.

Overall, it was a powerful experience and anyone completing it should allow themselves a feeling of achievement and pride. The video link below will give you a taste of the scenery along the route.

I’ve written four books now. ‘Head Hunted’ is my comic novel, just the ticket for the beach. My latest is ‘Following Gilgamesh’ – a bargain at £1!

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