Fort Arabesque

After a 6^th visit to Fort Arabesque (in Makadi Bay, Red Sea, Hurghada), and given the many developments over the last few years, this feels like a good time to update my blog. Additionally, quite a number of seasoned Fort guests have registered their disapproval of the changes, but without, I think, also acknowledging the improvements.

Basically, the hotel has grown by adding more rooms and villas over the last few years. What used to be a spacious beach is now less so, and it is not as easy to get a sunbed as it once was. Fort Arabesque is busier than it used to be. To cope with the greater number of guests, the beach in front of West Bay has been extended and an additional pool with a sunbathing area has been added. I think you can always find a sunbed, fairly easily, but it might not be where you want it. You can book beach beds for an additional fee. It is understandable that people don’t like these changes. However, when I look back to eight years ago when we first went, it is a fact that the hotel suffered from under occupancy. Fine for the guests, but not so good for the hotel business.

The hotel has made changes, put the prices up, and it was full on our recent visit. Clearly, they are doing something right, but what? I think the standard of service and friendliness of the staff is as good as it ever was. One change that has upset some folk is that there are distinct ‘classes’ of guest reflecting how one paid. For example, Villa guests have a black wristband, get dedicated sunbeds, and can eat anywhere. Other guests have more limited options. For example, East and West Wing guest pay a surcharge to dine in Club 159 or the Pavillion restaurants. East Wing guests can’t eat in the West Wing restaurant, which is also adult only.

Food. I would also say that the standard of food has improved. It was always fine, but now it’s very good… with occasional exceptions. There is always the risk of a tepid dish at a buffet and heat lamps don’t keep chips warm. I would advise people to use the cooking stations in the buffet areas where the chef cooks in front of you. Do try the local dishes, as these are often excellent. It’s no surprise that the Italian pizzas lack the authentic flavour, as for the Egyptian kofta; it’s cooked by Egyptians! I’m a big fan of Egyptian sweets too. The Pavillion restaurant is very good, though we preferred Club 159 for its less formal ambiance. The food in each is equally good.

Bars. Fort Arabesque is busy during the day. I don’t know where all the people go at night. I imagine a lot of folk stay in their rooms after dinner. There are about eight main bars to complement the five eating facilities. I’m counting off the top of my head here. Favourites? We like to visit Club 159 around 6.00pm and sit outside facing the bay, watching the lights twinkling over the water. Luuma, a new beach bar, is in a gorgeous, quiet setting on the sand. The downside is that it has a Mexican theme. Almost all the drinks had tequila in them, and bottles of Desperado had to be purchased. Compared to the range on offer across the hotel, this rather limits this bar’s chances. There are no wines or spirits available either. We didn’t go back.

There’s the Windbreaker Bar at the end of the beach where I go every afternoon around four, just for a mellow half hour. The hotel lobby has an extensive bar area with about five distinct sections inside and out, such as Le Jardin. All of these are a nice place to have a chat, though there is some music in the lobby itself. In front of West Wing there is the Sunset Bar. This used to get busy, but it seems less so these days. I miss watching the dancing here. The Jungle Pool has a splendid, quiet, discrete, bar area. Here, you can sit amongst the palm trees and chill out. The Beach Bar has been extended over the years and I do like to stop by here for a drink. It’s well kitted out and looks great. Unfortunately, whilst the gentle waves offer the perfect soundtrack, this is drowned out by the bar’s PA System. A missed opportunity in my view. Maybe others would disagree, but does the hotel ever survey the guests to find out?

Beach and sea. The beach is still excellent, and the opportunities for snorkelling are simply astounding. The range of fish and coral directly reachable, just by walking twenty yards off the sand, is pretty much unrivaled anywhere in the world. For the less confident swimmer who would not like jumping into the beautiful briny off boats, this accessibility is the big selling point. There are over twenty mini reefs in depths ranging from six to thirty feet. If you swim out beyond that, you get into the deeper water of the bay proper. I’ve never done that though there are boat trips out there. I’ve filmed a new video (including underwater footage) for this blog. For me, no description can capture the heavenly feeling of swimming among shoals of beautiful fish, in gorgeous, warm water. The video is the nearest I can get to it.

Please, please take note of the plentiful warnings about protecting the coral and respecting the fish. Some of the coral in the shallowest sections show signs of damage. It makes me angry when I see people feeding the fish or touching the coral. There’s no need.

Other stuff. Most of the evening performers sing to backing tapes. It’s not something I enjoy. The animation team works hard to provide a range of activities, all of which I skilfully avoid. A lot of noise comes from The Arena in the evenings. I did walk in once, I ran out. Mostly family orientated stuff to be fair, and the audience seemed to be having a great time. Elsewhere, one can get a massage or tattoo, but that’s not my bag. I don’t like people touching me. I have beautiful skin and I fail to see how ‘body art’ could improve its lustre. There is a gym, but I’ve never been in it on a matter of principle. Swimming in the sea is sufficient exercise for me.

If you get stomach cramps and diarrhea, go straight away to the pharmacy and get medical attention. They will sort you out. It is very common; I have had it three times, including on this last visit.

Noise. There is a tendency for bars and activities to play music too loud too often. Although it is quiet in the villas, guests staying in the East or West Wings may struggle to have an early night due to audible music. We did when we stayed in them. Our beds were right in front of Club 159 and the music was pretty much constant. Aqua aerobics on the sea front next to the Fort, Prima Life, were extremely loud. So loud that the bass and raucous ‘vocals’ were badly distorted. Perhaps it’s a hotel for the hard of hearing? That could explain the volume. Thankfully, it only lasted about 30 minutes most days. The fish and I could hear it underwater 100 metres away.

It wasn’t just volume that was a problem. The challenge with music is to choose the right type of ambiance for the venue and occasion. One evening, I noticed diners were eating while the track ‘I Touch Myself’ played in the background. Maybe many people aren’t bothered, but dance music during lunch? I think it’s important. If it’s done well, it’s a winner. Music is aural fragrance. Get it right, it enhances the setting. Get it wrong, it’s like a fart in a Church wedding.

The reviews on TripAdvisor tell a fair story of the ins and outs of Fort Arabesque. There are critical ones, but the overall balance is rightfully very positive.

The staff are, basically, nice people! Which is probably why the hotel has such a friendly vibe. And on that point, we should all be happy to tip staff for good quality service. The polite, multi-lingual waiters, bar staff, reception desk people, cleaners and porters are worth it in my view.

The Villas. Accommodation-wise, we had initially stayed in the East Wing, and it’s fine. We now go in the villas. They cost twice the price so, are they worth it? Firstly, the rooms are twice the size (ish), the bathrooms are very large, and I’d say the standard of furnishing is better. The outdoor seating and sunbathing space is very pleasant, but we’re beach types. The swim up pool is really great fun, which was a surprise, as we thought that would be fairly pointless. It’s lovely to have a quick dip when you get home after an evening out and about. There’s more stuff in the fridge, and a decent range of hot drink possibilities. I think the biggest plus is that the villas are much, much quieter than the main areas of the hotel. The easy access to the superior Pavilion restaurant and Club 159 for eating is another bonus. They serve better food than the buffets.

Is it worth paying twice as much for a villa? For my wife and I, the big appeal is the sea and the beach and having a villa doesn’t alter that very much. You are guaranteed a sunbed without having to shoot down at 6.30 am to sling a towel on one, of course. [This is a recent and irritating turn of events, in my view]. I’d say that, as long as you can afford it, it is worth going in a villa. The better experience, just about, makes it worthwhile. The winning factor for me was the quietness.

Trips. A day trip to Luxor by private car is a long one and a bit pricey, but quite brilliant. The drive itself is an eye opener into the landscape and the people. The destination; Valley of the Kings, the Nile, the Karnak temples are truly iconic, essential posing material for dinner parties.

I don’t see myself as being unduly courageous, but when you tell some people you’re going to Egypt, they gasp and look upon you as if you were going to fight in the Colosseum. The threat of terrorism exists across our world, in the UK, as much as it does in Red Sea resorts. There’s no need to give the terrorists more publicity here by recapping their crimes. If it helps, the fact is that security at Hurghada airport is very tight, indeed absurdly so. I was stopped/checked/searched a total of six times on departure and, importantly, from the jetway, I noticed baggage handlers being searched by security staff. Manchester airport has been assisting them on their setup. Most of Egypt is as safe as anywhere else (statistically safer than London and Manchester). Yes, the fear is there, but it’s everywhere, and the choice to give in to it is ours.

Should you go?

We’ve been six times, so I guess my view on this is obvious. We’ll go again too. Generally, on balance, I would say that the changes and developments have improved the hotel.

More advice? Get up early and be out for 7.30 am, because a) you get the better beds on the beach and, b) the snorkeling is better because water is clearer and there’s fewer people around. Some rooms are better than others. Obviously, a sea view is one thing and the private villas are nicer, and quieter. Additionally, some rooms have been renovated and some have not. The renovated ones are very nicely kitted out. There’s nothing wrong with the older ones and they might be in a better position. When you are booked in on arrival, ask to see more than one room if you can. If you don’t like your room for some reason, go and ask at reception. They will move you if it’s possible for them to do so. Finally, if you’ve got a problem, politely bring it up with the reception desk staff. Don’t just get angry and write a bad review on TripAdvisor. If you tell them the problem, they will try to sort it out. They can’t do that if you don’t tell them. It’s not a complaint; it’s feedback.

I can’t think of many places I’ve been to six times.* This year we met Joan and Cyril. They have been going to the Fort twice a year for the last 25 years. They still have a ball; she is 84 and he a sprightly 94. There’s hope for us all.

*Okay, Rome and Prestatyn.

**One more thing. Again, if you go, please, please treat the coral and fish with respect. xx