Our flight out to Rhodes was slightly delayed, but the wait on the airport apron gave rise to a little treat, as passengers were invited to pop into the cockpit for a look round. We sat in the pilots’ seats, and frankly; it was grand! Naturally, I told the captain that I liked movies about gladiators. The EasyJet cabin crew were very professional; they were superb supporting a young lad who was nervous about his first flight.
After landing, we had a private transfer to Lindos. It cost about €80, pricey, but we just wanted to get our holiday started. The taxi could only drop us off on the outskirts of the town as cars are not allowed in; the streets are too narrow. Costas, the owner of our villa, met us in a type of golf buggy and took us to our accommodation.
Villa Danae is a one-bedroom accommodation with all the things you need from day one to settle into your home from home. It has everything you’d expect and more; including about 10 large bottles of water, ham, cheese, and bread for your first breakfast. And a welcoming bottle of wine. It’s a cosy place for a couple with plenty of cupboard space, a good kitchen, and there is also heating/air-con in both main rooms.
The villa has a sizeable patio with sunbeds, a gas BBQ, and views over to the castle walls and acropolis. It’s a relaxing spot with zero traffic noise, as there are no roads nearby. We paid £120 a night in mid-April; this rises to £300 in the summer months and £350 in September. Demand is high for good locations in Lindos!
Costas has the philosophy that guests should feel like they are at home. He is only ever a WhatsApp message away to answer questions and offer assistance. He checks in with little texts asking if everything is okay. We bumped into him one evening; he was on the till in a local mini-market. He gave me the small bottle of Ouzo I planned to buy for free.
Quite a few old towns and villages in Europe have narrow ‘streets’. They grew organically over many, many years. As new houses were added, the gaps between them became the thoroughfares; they weren’t planned. Lindos is a car-free labyrinth of narrow alleys which climb the slopes the village is built onto. It’s a maze, a warren that you could easily get lost in, if only for a little while. One claim is that the town was deliberately constructed this way, to confuse attacking pirates…
It’s not a big place; we were only a five-minute stroll into the centre. It feels like most buildings have been converted for tourism. There are bars and restaurants galore, and every serviceable rooftop has a dining area cum cocktail bar boasting a view. In mid-April the season hasn’t really begun, so it’s not crowded. Several local people warned us that it gets packed from May to September, uncomfortably so. It would likely be very hot then, too.
To acclimatise on the first night, we had the Greek basics at Maria’s Taverna. My pork gyros and chips were fine, with a nice tzatziki. My wife had moussaka, which she said was lovely. The ½ litre of house white for €7 was okay. My red was… made of grapes. Mario’s next door is a similar kind of place. Neither is expensive; both offer fairly basic Greek cuisine.
We twice chose Dionysos for our evening meal. The open lasagna with feta and lamb ragu was delicious and richly flavoured! I had pork belly. Succulent and juicy with a slight crisp on the crackling, served with mash and veg. It was such a big chunk of pork that I am ashamed I managed to eat it all. We had lunch there the next day: a Greek salad and tortillas. Another night we dined at the highly rated Kalypso. It was quite good, not too expensive. We ate on the rooftop section; this led to the food chilling rather quickly.
The Acropolis dominates the skyline and is well worth a visit. There is usually a €20 entrance fee, but it was free the Saturday we went. I don’t know why. The site itself contains the remains of a Greek Temple to Athena with some Roman additions. There are also the remains of a Church. The walls are 14th century, so it’s quite a place. The walk up is steep, but not too challenging if you are reasonably ambulant. The views of the coast and Lindos are fabulous.
In the 16th century, successful captains treated themselves to larger houses, and four of these remain in Lindos. The lovely, mellow Captain’s House Bar being a refurbished example. The captain’s apartment has been restored and the pairs of swallows that traditionally nested there are in residence! It was cute to see them swooping in and out. Often, when we visit a place, one bar becomes the ‘go-to’ option for us. I sent a short video clip of it to a friend; “It’s like being in a dream!” Was his reply.
The sunbeds on the picturesque St Paul’s Bay are managed by the nearby Taverna, Tambakio. On the first day of their season, they were free. They charged the next day; however. Beds set back from the beach are €50 per couple, those by the water’s edge €60 (no umbrella), and the four-poster bed style a snip at €90. We passed on the beds! We opted to lie on the sand on the other side of the charming bay. The day before, a beer, an orange juice and two Greek salads at Tambakio cost about €45. People had praised the food here but, lacking dressing and seasoning, the salads were a tad bland.
There are two other large, sandy beaches in Lindos: the main beach is Megali Paralia, and there is also Pallas Beach. We didn’t go on them as there were no sunbeds out so early in the season. When they are set up, they are half the price of the Tambakio beds.
Geographically, Lindos is well-placed on the middle of the south-eastern coast of Rhodes. There is a bus station at the top of town, and you can go and visit other parts of the island. At the end of the trip, we caught a bus for our four nights in Rhodes Town. It cost €11 for two people. The journey took one hour and fifteen minutes.
Should You Go?
Aye. I wouldn’t go in the height of the season as it gets very hot and very busy, as Lindos is a magnet for day-trippers from people staying elsewhere on Rhodes. In mid-April, quite a few places were not yet open, and yet, assuming all of them could get full, there must be big crowds in the summer.
Should I Go 2 
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