For our fourth annual cycling trip, we girded our loins for a ride from Newcastle to Edinburgh. It’s a mostly flat ride of approximately 200 miles (route link here). As the name implies, it follows the Northumberland coast, taking in the beautiful scenery and the several castles that feature on the way. That stated, some castles, like Alnwick, are just off the route. Consequently, there is a choice to be made between cracking on with the cycling or taking time out to explore the ruins. After our experience on other trips, we compromised on this one . We did the whole route in five days. This gave us some time to take in the sights, with plenty of time for watching World Cup matches and, of course, drinking beer.
We met up in Newcastle on Thursday evening and enjoyed a few pints in various locations. The Crown Posada deserves a mention as it is a cracking traditional boozer. Cilantro was a very good Indian restaurant; £30 a head for food, drinks all round, and that figure includes the tip.
We stayed in three Premier Inns on the trip; they are a particular favourite as they are usually so bike-friendly. Three of our party were on pedal assist, and it’s a bonus to be able to take your bike into your room and charge it up. For the first time in my experience, Premier Inn said no. They wanted me to chain an expensive up in a very open garage. Various debates ensued. In the end, they relented and let us put our bikes in an office, but we couldn’t charge them. Fortunately, most of us hadn’t cycled very far and our batteries were topped up.
Riders of electric bikes face a choice. It would be wise to contact the hotel and clarify the situation, which is difficult with Premier Inn. Whether the individual hotel allows ebikes depends on the manager. We came up with a cunning plan worthy of Baldric. As you check in, make sure you leave the bikes outside! They won’t pop out to check. As long as the battery is hidden in the frame, most people won’t suss it out. This is an ongoing problem as long the uninformed equate ebikes with unstable ordnance, waiting to explode. Ah well.
Day 1
Riding this day from Newcastle to Ashington; the birthplace of Jack and Bobby Charlton! The suburbs of cities are often the less charming part of the journey, but Newcastle offered some nice harbours as followed the Tyne eastwards towards the coast proper. North Shields had a pleasant promenade and the clement weather got the locals out. You didn’t see many people swimming, though, and we got plenty of good weather. The North Sea is nippy! We had intended to go out in Ashington in the evening, but a big storm kept us in the hotel. But I don’t think we missed much if Blyth was anything to go by. The northeast is right to point an accusing finger at Westminster; it needs financial investment.
Day 2
There are exceptions to the run-down ex-mining/fishing towns. Amble seemed to have a thriving high street with plenty of coffee shops, cafes, and all the paraphernalia of a successful resort. Nearby Warkworth Castle looked very appealing, although we didn’t actually go into it. I only need the bathroom mirror to check out a shabby, decrepit old ruin. Overall, it was a rewarding pootle from Ashington to Beadnall. The remarkable feature of the day was Bamburgh Castle. It is big, with spectacular walls. I’d seen it before, so I just looked on from a distance. It was used for some scenes in Indiana Jones and the Dial of Destiny. Nearby Alnwick Castle was used for the broomstick training sessions in Harry Potter and the Violent Herring.
Farne Lodge was decent accommodation in a lovely setting, next to (I think) the only pub in town; the Craster Arms. It put on quite an event for the England match that evening. Next door was a café called the Courtyard; fantastic breakfasts, generous portions, superb coffee.
Day 3
Beadnell to Berwick was the longest ride of our jaunt, at around 40 miles. Which isn’t that long! We broke it up with a cracking coffee and cake at Giacopazzis Gelato in historic and picturesque Eyemouth. The harbour is a charming spot, and you can feed the seals if you’re the seal-feeding type. I’m not. I had to work for a living, why shouldn’t semi-aquatic marine mammals? Scroungers.
Other beasts worthy of note were some very odd quadra-horned goats we came across. I’ve never seen their like before, and I’ve been round the block a few times.
This section of the journey gave those who wished an opportunity to cycle over the causeway to Holy Island; Lindisfarne! The tides were favourable to us, but the wind was not. At a steady 25 mph in our faces, this was a pretty tough day. I’ve been before and, knowing that there isn’t much there, opted not to go. I didn’t need the extra miles. But it is a ‘must do’ for many, one to ‘tick off the list’. Which is why I went originally.
From here we cycled on to Berwick. Some of the terrain en route was potentially tricky. It was fine when we were cycling there; the dried-out marsh/dune paths were narrow in places. Okay, but they were very narrow at times, six inches, and I suspect that with some rainfall they’d be a challenging ride.
Berwick is a fine old walled town. Plenty of pubs and restaurants, and the ever reliable(ish) Premier Inn – but this one was very amenable. L.S. Lowry used to holiday in Berwick and he painted a scene from the walls. The very spot is preserved, so you can compare what he painted with what is there now. It must have made a pleasant change for him to set up his easel in delightful Berwick upon Tweed and paint a pretty picture. A more fetching location than the dreary mills of North Manchester. Still, Lowry gave us an important record of those times; not much had changed in my youth. But the city has kicked on now. Anyway, back to the cycling!
Day 4
Our destination was The Royal Mackintosh Hotel in Dunbar. It’s a Victorian edifice, quite grand on the outside, but somewhat tired on the inside. You get what you pay for. Usually. Not in this case, come to think of it. The breakfast was poor. New owners have recently taken it over. They need to get it up to scratch to justify what they charge, and it’s not that expensive. If you plan to stay there, perhaps some research on TripAdvisor would indicate their progress.
As a town, Dunbar is fine. It was a Monday night, and pretty quiet so, it’s hard to judge it.
Day 5
Unfortunately, I cannot say much about the journey to Edinburgh. I had to take the train because of a bad back. We stayed in a student lodging called Yugo Brae. It was fine; accommodation can be pricey in Edinburgh, and this was within walking distance of the town centre. King Charles was in town, visiting Holyrood House, or similar. There were lots of folk about in traditional Scottish costume, which is a nice sight. I’m sure they had a splendid evening, basking in the reflected glory of our diffident monarch. Each to their own.
We ate at a restaurant called ‘Mowgli’. Most of the dishes… sorry… ‘street food’, were tepid. I wrote a stinging review on TripAdvisor but have since deleted it; life’s too short to be unkind. You might like it.
Should you go?
In its favour, the Coasts and Castles route has some gorgeous scenery; it is a beautiful coastline. Prices are very reasonable; especially for beer and food. With few real hills, the route is not unduly demanding; but that depends on how many miles you schedule per day. Some sections of the route were brand-new dedicated bicycle lanes! On the whole, I thought we’d see more by doing fewer miles per day. On reflection, I’m not sure that really happened. We didn’t dismount and spend an afternoon in a castle. It’s nice to stop for a coffee and admire the view, and we did. But for me, cycle touring isn’t sightseeing.
Newcastle is a grand city, Edinburgh more so. Berwick on Tweed was a hidden gem. The castles are splendid monuments to the rich history of Northumberland, all worth a visit if you have the time and the inclination. Many of the beaches are quite beautiful, isolated, and picturesque. There is a bit of a downside, and I want to say this without offending the locals. Many of the towns show evidence of the lack of investment the region has suffered from. It was sad to see when Northumbria has so much to offer. It is really worth a visit!
Video below, but first…
Should I Go 2 