As we live quite near to Lytham, it is not so much a holiday destination for us as a ‘date night’ option; a little trip out for a special occasion. We’ve been quite a few times, but only ever for one night. Additionally, for myself, it is a favourite destination for a bicycle ride. It’s a forty-mile round journey from our house. I break it up with a chilled lunch in the park by Fairhaven Lake. I love Lytham and if I take the mickey a bit, I don’t mean to offend.
Oddly, Lytham is often referred to as Lytham St. Annes. In fact, these are two separate small towns. Be aware, I am only writing about Lytham in this blog. The two places are quite different. Lytham is more gentile and sophisticated; its main features are its bars and restaurants. Though that may just be my perception because that’s what we go for. St Annes is more of a traditional family holiday destination, with a beach and a pier. There are some very impressive beach huts at St Annes which underline it’s classic day at the seaside vibe. It has more shops selling seaside rock than its refined neighbour. But Lytham has more defibrillators. When you are eventually put in a care home, Lytham will be your annual day out.
To describe the location of Lytham, it is on the coast, but not really by the sea; it sits on the north side of the Ribble estuary. When the tide is high, it looks like the sea, so you can pretend and hum a few shanties. Southport is visible on the southern side of the water. If you were walking towards the town centre from the estuary, you would first come to a grassy sandbank. Here, many people enjoy a stroll and walk canine beasts, so watch where you put your feet. Next is the promenade, which follows the coast. It is about two miles long, quite wide and well-maintained, with occasional vendors selling coffee or ice-cream. There are lots of benches where you can sit and gaze at, well, not much; but it is relaxing. Between the prom and the town is an extensive green sward at the southern end of which is the famous landmark; Lytham Windmill. This massive lawn is a magnificent spot for a picnic, and you could fly a kite if that is your bag.
After this, moving further inland, is the town itself. It is posh and popular with retirees who can afford the high house prices. I would say Lytham is old money or, well-heeled. Because of this, there are lots of pubs, bars, and restaurants which cater to that market. Many of them are quite chic, with prices to match. If you like a classy joint, you’ll like Lytham! It has a mellow, relaxing, upmarket vibe.
At the north end of the promenade is Fairhaven Lake. You can hire motor boats and there is a play area for children. Surprisingly, there is also a full-size replica of a Spitfire, mounted on a high plinth. It’s a splendid monument in its own way, and very Instagramable. If you are the bucket and spade type, there is a large beach adjacent to Fairhaven Lake and its park. For me, one of Lytham’s big charms is that it offers a day at the seaside similar to what I experienced as a kid* in the 1960s. You can go for a paddle, bury a sibling on the beach, eat/drop an ice-cream, and enjoy sandwiches of luncheon meat or corned beef with a sprinkling of sand. The elderly sit in their deck chairs (or cars), with tartan blankets on their knees, watching benignly on. For them, lunch is a cold pork pie and a flask of tea. Seriously, you will see this in the Fairhaven car park. It’s a time warp.
Ahh… innocent seaside pleasures.
Lytham Hall is worth a visit. It was once the home of the Clifton Family, for four centuries. It is a Grade I listed building, so jolly grand. Think Barrat Homes but, well, grander. The site and its 80 acres of parkland date back to the 12th century when it was home to Benedictine monks. I’ve not been in it as the only time we visited was for the Lytham Proms. It’s a camping chairs and wicker basket affair. Like Glastonbury but with prosecco instead of cocaine. We saw Alfie Boe there and someone else.
Anyway. Accommodation. Last time we stayed at Auberge. It is in the centre, overlooking Clifton Square. It’s an old building tastefully converted into apartments. There is no reception; access is via a code which you key in. It was only about £60 a night on the Tuesday we stayed, but it is more than double that at weekends. Just a few doors down is one of the Mode Hotels. A similar setup to Auberge with similar prices. Weekends are at a premium because Lytham is a popular place. Both these accommodations are high quality, nicely kitted out and in the most central location. A few years ago, we stayed at The County Hotel; it felt like a pub, really. It was fine, and the breakfast was first-class.
There are some great bars and boozers around. My favourite is Taps. It serves a great range of cask beers alongside the usual lagers and stuff. They do food, but I’ve not eaten there. The style of the pub is ye olde worlde, with wooden floors, bare brick walls, and a pleasing outdoor seating area. There are sign saying no smoking, but some wild young things do. How naughty! At the other end of the style scale, Zest is a cool joint with additional pavement tables and outdoor heating. The Deacon has a great interior with large brass pipes, making it quite a flashy ale house. God knows what’s in the pipes, but it lends a steam punk flavour to the place. It used to be the William Deacon bank. Like most of the outlets around and near Clifton Square, it has covered outdoor seating areas on the street.
Foodwise, Seniors gets top billing. It is a humble fish and chip shop. Fantastic if you eat in, and even better when you eat the chips out of newspaper as God intended. I wouldn’t go for the large fish and chips unless you were very hungry, very greedy, or both. Oh, and the cup of tea might not look massive, but you get free refills; so it’s effectively infinite.
It saddens me to say write this, but I keep being disappointed by the restaurants. I’m sure I’ve just been unlucky. For example, the Olive Tree brasserie has good reviews on TripAdvisor; I sent my food back. Solito Posto has fantastic reviews. My wife and her friends went a week earlier and absolutely loved it. I was disappointed but to be fair, they were apologetic and gave us a free glass of wine and a gorgeous portion of tiramisu. I’d certainly go back for round two!
So, I will not say much about the dining options in town. Ignore me. They are many and are highly praised.
Should you go?
As ever, I’m only offering a snippet in this blog based on my personal experiences. There are lots of bars, restaurants, and hotels that I don’t have a clue about. You’ll have to do your own research. But I can emphasise its main selling point. Lytham is elegant, mellow and charming. The vibe is gentle and civilised; certainly mid-week, and my wife and I love it.
Nearby Blackpool is a draw for many visitors, as there is a lot to do and see. But if I were visiting there, I’d consider staying in laid-back Lytham.
* I used to be a goat.
Should I Go 2 